Reef KH is a complete buffer, meaning it contains more than what many other buffers you can buy do in terms of how they affect the carbonate hardness or the buffering capacity. Indeed, several buffers on the market are really nothing more than baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). That is not the kind of buffer you want to use. The reason is that the continuous use of baking soda will not raise your pH but lower it. The natural pH of baking soda is between 7.6 and 7.8 depending on how pure it is.
Reef KH contains carbonates and bicarbonates and borates, making it far more complete than other buffers on the market. That is where its buffering power is found. You are not adding just one compound but a mixture of 6 (previously 5). If you are using another brand make sure it contains at least 5 compounds that buffer. Out of the buffering compounds, the carbonates are the ones that affect the buffering (and the pH) the most. So do borates.
Reef KH is a powdered compound. Although one could add the compound directly to the water, it is suggested that you dilute the compound first. This allows for far better control over the dKH and less dramatic changes. Slower changes reduce stress on all animals which is very desirable.
Reef KH is sold in either 1 gallon or 2 gallons which after dilution of the powdered buffering compound result in a liquid of either 1 or 2 gallons of buffer.
Directions for using Reef KH correctly:
Dilute the compound or part of it in treated water (RO or distilled or DI)
Once you have the diluted compound keep it at room temperature. If a precipitate forms, the reason is that the solution is too cold. Warming it a little will make all the compound redisolve. The solution does not go bad or loose its strength. You can keep it until you have used it all. Even if the precipitate forms after several months, just rewarm the solution so all the preicipitate disolves and your buffer is ready to be used again.
Before you can begin adding the Reef KH liquid you will need to perform a dKH test (any brand is fine or you can order ours).
Note the result of your test so you have a basis for comparison. As you add buffer and test what the result is, you need these numbers so you know that a change is ocurring and also that the dKH is actually going up and nearing the strength you want it to be. The suggested levels are: 7 to 8 dKH for reef tanks and 10-12 dKH for fish only tanks.
Note too that carbonate hardness is expressed in various forms. The formula that alllows you to convert from one to the other is as follows:
Procedure:
Add two ounces (fluid) of the Reef KH. Wait about one hour and retest your dKH. It may not have changed. The reason is simple. The compound you add must first neutralize the acidity in the water (organic acidity and other types of acidity). Once the acidity in the tank has been neutralized you will start to see an increase in your dKH.
If after adding the first two ounces nothing changes, add 2 more and wait another hour and retest the dKH. Keep adding 2 ounces at a time until a change occurs and keep doing so until you reach the dKH you want to achieve.
Once that level is reaced, monitor your dKH from time to time and add liquid Reef KH as needed.
It is important to realize that no change in the dKH will occur untill all acidity, whether organic, boric, phosphoric and so on has been neutralized.
The amount you will need to add before a change occurs depends on the amount of acidity that first needs to be neutralized. This means that in some cases you may have to add quite a bit of Reef KH before you actually see a change.
We could bring that change about faster by adding larger quantities at a time but that may stress the animals so it is better, in my opinion, to go the slower route and not stress any of the fish or corals. You will need a little more time but you will know that you are safer doing it this way.
Should you have any questions, please Email Me
Doc:Prods:ReefKH:Jan97